Kerala travelogue: What to eat, where to stay, and when to visit God’s own Country

We began our descent into Kochi at 7:30 pm. There wasn’t much to see outside – it was almost dark – but from what little we could make out, the land seemed to be dense with trees, and the air heavy with moisture. Narrow streams, which we decided were the famous backwaters, snaked through the land. And judging by the thick clouds we’d just dodged moments ago, it was raining. Perfect. This was an accurate description, we would learn the next day, when the bright morning sunlight made everything look…

Read More

Udaipur travelogue: What to do, where to eat and when to visit the city of lakes

The first sound that greeted you at the arrival lounge of Udaipur’s Maharana Pratap Airport was Bollywood singer Kumar Sanu’s. The flat screen TV, hoisted on a pillar, was playing Pooja Bhatt praying in a temple, and Sanjay Dutt doing what he does best: singing Tumhe Apna Banane Ki Kasam Khai Hai in Sanu’s voice. My mother tugged at my father’s shirt, “You remember the last time we came here? Everyone was playing songs from Sadak. It’s happening again!” Last time was 25 years ago. This was my first visit…

Read More

Puducherry travelogue: What to eat, where to stay, and when to visit the pristine paradise

It had rained the previous night. It was 9:30 am. The bus that would take us to Puducherry was about to leave in an hour. We were in 10 kilometres away, navigating through narrow lanes, in an alien city, driven by a man who couldn’t understand us, and who seemed to be harbouring a personal grudge against Google Maps. After ignoring the robot lady’s soothing tones for the tenth time, and swerving into yet another muddy lane, he dropped us at what seemed like the outskirts. This was Koyambedu Bus…

Read More