Kerala travelogue: What to eat, where to stay, and when to visit God’s own Country

We began our descent into Kochi at 7:30 pm. There wasn’t much to see outside – it was almost dark – but from what little we could make out, the land seemed to be dense with trees, and the air heavy with moisture. Narrow streams, which we decided were the famous backwaters, snaked through the land. And judging by the thick clouds we’d just dodged moments ago, it was raining. Perfect. This was an accurate description, we would learn the next day, when the bright morning sunlight made everything look…

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